DEVGRU machine gunner bash help

Given the role that the bash will have within my team, I think that it might be a good idea to give him a body that’s more muscular than the others (who will use primary DAM 2.0 and 3.0 bodies). What are some good ones that I should consider? Ones with double jointed elbows would be nice, and they should hopefully be able to fit within a E&S uniform, and be compatible with DAM, SS, or E&S headsculpts.

I also plan on adding tattoos to both this and many of my other figures. In this case of the gunner, since I envision him as a modern day Viking, He will be be given more Nordic tattoos. The issue is, I’m not sure how to fit some of the larger ones over the joint lines. Also, should I display him with the sleeves rolled up or down?

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The ganghood muscular bodies are pretty good. A nice middle ground between the phicens and the regular ones.

Not sure about the tattoos. I had the same dilemma I got some full arm sleeve decals and I don’t want to risk putting them on a phicen but I’m not sure how I would put them on jointed arms. Maybe apply them when arms are straight, then run a thin knife over the joint lines to cut them there. Haven’t tried it though so not sure if it will work.

Your bashes sound awesome. Any work in progress pics?

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I managed to find a video of someone making a kitbash of a character from modern warfare, and they applied a couple of the full sleeves by cutting them in half and then applying them. That seems like the most practical option, although I wonder how doing it on figures with double jointed elbows would work.

I haven’t even begun the bash yet, behind getting some preliminary items such as the holster and helmet. Beyond the body, I’m also having a hard time deciding what headsculpt I should use. Since I plan on using a balaclava and mesh mask on him, ones with molded beards might be too impractical. So I think that I’ll go with a rooted beard. If I could find the right bald headsculpt, I could also do the other hair as well, probably an undercut with a ponytail. As for weaponry, he’ll carry powerful guns like the MK48 and HK45CT, as well as a winkler knife and RMJ berserker tomahawk.

Would the Worldbox AT027 body be a good option as well? I heard that some of the E&S uniform made for their 1.0 bodies might be baggy enough to fit on such a large body, and the uniform that I’m using for all of my figures (the MC Black Crye G3 combat uniform from the NSW direct action breacher) is one of those. Not only that, but that body has a butterfly joint at the shoulders, which are essential for properly holding weapons.

Lately, I’ve been considering using either the phicen M35 or the one from the Soldier story marine raider. The former has both the high amount of musculature that I want as well as the articulation needed to properly pose it for holding weapons and the like. The latter has both of those qualities as well, but it isn’t as buff and only has single jointed elbows. It would also be easier to apply full sleeve tattoos onto the phicen, as it is seamless. As for head compatibility, from what I’ve seen on instagram DAM and E&S heads seem to fit with no problems on various phicen bodies, but I’ve heard that they would need special neck adapters to fit on SS bodies, and I’d like to avoid that sort of trouble.

But the most important factor is how well such bodies would fit into their clothing. In this case, the uniform from the E&S NSW DA breacher will be used as it is apparently tailored rather large for the body it comes with. While I’m fairly certain that both bodies will be able to fill it out adequately, I am concerned that the phicen greater bulk will result in overly-restrictioned movement. Any insights?

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The M35 body is significantly larger than the Soldier Story Marine Raider body. That E&S outfit might still be a pretty snug fit on that M35, and being a seamless body, it may restrict the joint movement as a concern you are worried about. But the early gen of the E&S bodies were quite large, so it seems like a less risky option. That outfit on the Soldier Story body shouldn’t be an issue, unless it’s too baggy.

As Col.Braddock messaged, the ACE uniforms had a bigger cut, which tended to fit bulkier Hasbro GI Joes well, as well as their own bodies which were copied, and improved on by DAM. The only issue you might have is that there aren’t really any newer camo patterns done by ACE.

The tattoo question from the first post would be interesting. I’m not sure how you would get them to sit right on the rubber skin of the M35. They would probably flake off because of adherance issues with any kind of typically used transfer decals commonly used as tattoos. And if you use ink it may bleed into the rubber over time, causing blurring and fading. Which is actually an issue with real tattoos anyway, so that may add to the realism haha. If you are going to go with a sleeves down option on the outfit, you may not even want to worry about putting on tattoos as an option because you’ll never see it anyway. And the outfit could cause the tattoos to rub off while handling and posing the figure.

Good to know. Initially I considered keeping their sleeves down, but then I decided that I wanted to roll them up and show off their tats. Not too high, just below the elbow should do. The tattoos that I had in mind are waterslides from badmothercustoms (which were mentioned in a different post that demonstrated how to apply them), although I’ve also been looking into temporary tattoos since it would probably be easier to get a fairly larger and more varied assortment of tattoos for a cheaper amount of money. The problem is that most of the ones that I’ve seen online are meant for 1/1 scale real people, and I’m not sure which size would be right.

I agree with @cdn_rhino that you might encounter some difficulties when trying to apply waterslide decals/tattoo on aPhicen body. I only have some female ones for some very adult and non-military scenarios where tattoos would fit well, but they don’t really stick. I have done some free-hand “tattoo” painting on these bodies with Micron pens and those do stick well on the silicon “skin” although there also is a slight blurring. So, if you are a good painter, you could draw the tattoos, yourself…
I have some sheets from Badmothercustoms and they are really nice, very crisp and sharp!

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With my DEVGRU breacher bash, the only one so far that I’ve applied any tattoos on, I used the Decal fix and decal softener from vallejo pants in order to adhere it, and I’ve had no problems with adhesion or blurring. Down the road when I get an airbrush setup put together, I’ll switch to Mr. Mark setter and Mr. Mark softener instead. Perhaps it’s things such as those that will really make a difference.

I use the Decal stuff from Vallejo, too, and it works well, just not on the Phicen bodies with their silicon fake skin surface. On normal plastic bodies, fixing waterside is just as easy as putting them on plastic models…

Would love to hear more about your experiences putting decals on phicen. I have microsol and microset but am paranoid about how it might ruin the phicen body. I asked bad mother customs and he said it’s doable with lots of microsol and also had pics from his customers who have done it. But given how pricey my m35 is I would love to hear more before taking the risk and putting a decal on him. Thanks!

If I find the time, I’ll give it a try and stick some decal tattoos on one of my female Phicen bodies.
I will report the results, might be after Easter, so please be patient.

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That’s fine , I can wait. Right now I’m focusing on procuring the weapons, gear, clothing items, and headsculpts that are needed for my bashes, so I’ll probably end up worrying about getting most of the bodies last.

Hey guys! I finally managed to find some spare time and try putting some waterslide decals on a female Phicen body. With the Vallejo Decal Fix and softener, it worked decently well. The decals do stick if you prime the surface with the Decsl Fix. On rather flat surfaces, like the lower back and abdomen, it is no real problem. On more rounded surfaces, it takes some patience and four or five applications of the softener to really make the tattoo stick to the surface and the anatomy. I used the decals on one of the “large bust” figures, where large means LARGE, and stuck a tattoo on the chest. The end result is okay, but as I said, that took some time and tweaking. I applied one coat of softener, really pushed down on the decal to make it fit the surface, let the coat dry and repeated ist, until there were no more creases or loose edges.
Unfortunately, I can’t really post pics of it, here, since it’s kind of “R-rated”. I will try and “tattoo” the shoulder/biceps and take photos if that works!

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It’s great to hear that you’ve been able to apply those decals, hopefully you can get with photos in. I think a little clever editing will allow you to show all of your work without including any naughty bits.

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Awesome thank you! I was worried decal softener will damage the bodies as people also recommend it for getting superglue off but this is great news.

No damage, so far. Problem is that the Decal Fix kind of leaves a film on the “skin”, you should apply it sparingly and really just in the area of the decal. I was kind of lavish with it, so right now, I plan to spray the whole body with a matte varnish when all the decals have been applied. There is the usual acrylic varnish and apparently Vallejo now also offers a polyurethane varnish. Any idea, which is better?

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I have recently procured the MK48 from the MSE Marc Lee figure, although I’m not a fan of the stock that comes with it, so I’ll also get the MK48 set from the ranger firearms pack, and swap the stock from that onto the Marc Lee version. As far as I can tell both of those stocks are held in place by a pin, and I need to know what tool I can use to push it out.

However, the latter set only includes a single 7.62 ammo drum, whereas I need at least 3 in total. Since sourcing additional ones is an issue, I am also considering putting together an MK46 with a quad rail on top for mounting a laser device, since that would be more compact and would make it easier to find the ammo drums I need. There is one from a DAM Tears or the sun figure that might fit the bill, but it has the same issue as the Marc Lee 48 in that it has the skeletal Para stock. Thankfully I have likewise tracked down another MK46 from the SS NSW MK46 gunner with the M249 fixed stock. Would it be possible to perform a similar transplant with those two 46s?

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Sorry I’m not sure. I’m kinda new to decals and have only done a couple on cheap bodies so don’t know enough.