I want to know if and how headsculpts from either DAM or Soldier Story can be repainted. One of my bashes uses the headsculpt from DAM 78064, and while its structure is fine, the skin tone and eye color is much too dark for the kind of aesthetic that I’m after.
I usually strip the paint with a bit of nail polish remover and Q-Tips. Before reapplying paint though, I make sure to clean the sculpt with soap and water to make sure that residual nail polish remover is completely gone. I also water down acrylic paint and add many, many layers of paint before sealing it with non-gloss varnish (gloss for eyes).
You mentioned that the skin tone was too dark. Rather than completely removing the paint, you can probably remove a bit of paint (unless you want a completely different skin tone).
The skin tone that I’m aiming for is very pale, just short of bone white. So for varnishing, should I mask the parts that I don’t want sealed in tape? And since I plan on recoloring the rest of the body and the feet with either paint or pastels, should I disassemble it beforehand? And how could I go about adding makeup to the the face?
I have never repainted a 1/6 sculpt, so no help on that from my side. Concerning pale skin tones, you can check Vallejo Game Colours, they do some pale to “dead” skin tones. Games Workshop also has a “pale flesh” color. I use these to paint my Elf/Dark Elf fantasy miniatures. By adding small amounts of white or a slightly darker skin tone, you can do some shading for exposed or recessed parts of the face to get more depth.
Any head can be repainted. Clean with soap n water, then apply Primer (I go white or grey rather than black, as it keeps colours light).
I make copies of heads google how to make resin moulds, plenty of help vids around. Main advantage is (1) I can customise a head, facial hair/change hair style (2) If I make a mistake just remove paint and start again, without being worried about this being your only head. (3) My original head is left un harmed (4) You have (start to build up) a catalogue of heads, some maybe rare, others become a favourite. However fully understand if this is to far down the hobby road. I do enjoy painting/sculpting/scratch building stuff, I forget its not everyone’s cuppa tea. I would recommend applying liquid mask over eyes, protects them during painting process. Saves having to repaint eyes. Can be hard matching manufactures quality.
MASKING: For small areas such as eyes I use a liquid mask rather than tape. Humbrol maskol liquid is what I use but other makes do the same. When applying use an old brush or cocktail stick. Its sticky smelly stuff, but does cover areas well (sets to a fine rubber finish). Read label think it lasts a few days. Peal off when finished painting
PAINTING: adding to MadQuack advise recommend you use a wet palette. Just google wet palette - plenty around - easy to build your own. WHY wet palette, (1) they are great for mixing colours (2) help keep your paint wet (essential if doing shading work). Recommend you look at Darren Carnall youtube site - he does some of the best 1/6 scale head sculpt painting I have seen
I got that head so that I can root hair and a beard onto it, and for no other purpose. That said, I have found some other headsculpts that may also be suitable, such as the one from DAM 78066, or a recast of an Agent 47 headsculpt. Not only do they look aggressive, but they’re also bald. Meaning that the hair-rooting process will be much easier. The only problem that I’m not sure If that recast would fit on the Dam 3.0 body I have.
Ah hair rooting - understand, not something I have ever tried tbh. Must give it a go one day.
Fitting recast head can be a pain. I have a selection of 3rd party head adaptors in my bits box. They tend to be made from either a hard plastic or a more flexible plastic. I place a small order to ensure its the flexible type.
Marlo the Collector - Quick custom HEAD NECK PLUG BALL JOINT TUTORIAL (Utube) - found this easy guide to making a quick adaptor. Hardest thing is finding exact tubing lol
Yes, I recommend disassembling the body before applying paint / pastel. Alternatively, you can also just paint the parts that would be exposed.
Hair rooting is a daunting task! I tried it years ago with Beacon’s Gem-Tac and Tibetan lamb hair. Please share your progress!
For shading, a drying retarder can also be useful, at least in my experience with figure painting. You can then paint the lighter/darker shades into the still wet base paint, which softens the contrast a bit as the colors kind of run toghether. I use the Vallejo retarder. One issue I have with it is that is has a gel-like consistency and thickens the paint, so you then have to thin it down again. Again, this is all based on painting 32 mm or 54 mm metal miniatures, where you need much less paint and drying up isn’t really an issue.
I would advise you to watch some tutorials on YouTube to give you a few ideas, I have been watching the ones by this guy, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQNooPx0YmU&list=PLTeFV62pOHTjKXjow1JpWpn9ykdakFqot&index=2
I second his suggestion up there. Very good tutorials.
I’ve actually already done it twice by now. The first times was on my DEVGRU pointman kitbash, where I used Beacon’s gem-tac and faux fur that I got from Michael’s. The hair wasn’t bad, but the beard sucked. Fortunately, It and all the rest of my military bashes use some sort of facial covering like a balaclava, neck gaiter, bandana, or in the case of one a balaclava and one of those air soft mesh masks that can be seen on some recent SAS photos, respectively.
As for my second try, I used the Fabri-tac and Raven black Tibetan Lamb Fur that you mentioned. I was going for a slicked back style, with an long beard and a handlebar mustache. Ideally, it should have been able to completely cover the mouth. I believed that I did a much better job on the hair and beard, but like before the mustache proved troublesome. I think the biggest issues were in how I removed the presculpted hair, and attached the hair to the head. For the former, I used an exacto knife to shave off the hair, and the result was not as smooth as it probably needed to be. For the latter task, my initial approach was to dip the glued ends of the hair wefts in water in order to prevent inadvertent sticking, and then applying them onto the head with my fingers. It stuck okay, when dried resulted in a lot of visible glue residue, particularly on the sides and top of the head, where I ended up putting additional layers of hair in order to cover those up. But then those areas became too thick, and they still kind of looked ugly. After attaching the hair I soaked the head in water and left it to dry overnight, then began the cutting, trimming, and styling stages. Overall the figure is satisfactory, but has a lot of room for improvement.
First, I plan on getting more of that lamb fur and glue, then either removing all of the hair on that head that I already have, or getting a new head entirely, like the ones that I discussed earlier. I will then repaint the head, body, feet, and maybe pegs, and overall give the figure look fabulous. I’m talking lipstick, eye shadow, eye liner, makeup, nails, and high-heeled dress shoes. All in black, of course.
After that, I plan on redoing the hair. Same style, but this time I intend to add a widow’s peak, and leave everything more even in terms of length.
I’m also considering rooting hair onto the headsculpts of all my military bashes. Just some beards though, as their regular sculpted hairstyles are more than satisfactory for me. Might seem a bit redundant as they all wear masks, but like morals, I believe that the truest indicator of quality attention to detail to that which may not be readily visible from an outside perspective. I forgot to mention in my previous comment that I intend to add water slide tattoos to the bash that I’m repainting, but since its body doesn’t have seamless joints like phicen bodies, I’m unsure on how to apply them safely. Should I place them normally and then cut them along the joint lines?
Re rooted hair, have you considered making a toupee in 1/6 for a head sculpt once you have shaved the hair off, it must be easier to root hair in to very thin leather than to a head sculpt, it may work for beards as well.